Leasing with bad credit

Have you been refused a car lease? Chances are you have less flawed credit history. Know what’s involved and what you can do to build good credit history.

Credit score is a measure of your credit worthiness used by leasing agents to determine whether you are eligible for a lease. You credit score is based on your past and present credit history, and can range anywhere from 350 to 850. A measure above 720 is considered a “prime score” and will land you the best rates. If you are below 640, then you are “sub-prime” and will be considered bad rating by the bulk of leasing agents. This is where all the trouble in getting that lease comes from.

Ask for your FICO Credit Score from the Fair Isaac Corporation (FICO) which details your credit score held by all three leading credit score agencies in the country. Compare the three credit scores and determine if
any agency is holding erroneous credit data about you. Contact the reporting agency and getting corrected. If there are no mistakes in your credit report, then you can take some steps to maximise your score to go above the threshold of 640. Pay your bills on time and pay down any credit card debts you have. Do not take any new accounts as this might increase the likelihood of you getting into bad credit thus worsening your credit score.

Leasing used cars explained

Leasing a used vehicle can be an attractive deal in many ways, no least getting you into that luxury model or SUV, for lower monthly payments than a brand new one. Be prepared, however, to do some more homework to dissect a good deal.

As with new car-leasing, your price research should focus on the key figures that are the initial market value and the estimated residual value of the used car. This is harder to predict since there is no factory-set sticker price on used cars, and the residual percentage is very much pegged to a subjective current retail value. Use different sources to get a rough idea of the value of the used car: your local dealerships, internet car-evaluating tools, such as Edmunds.com and Cars.com, to name but a few. Another way to pin down a good estimate is to compare the lease on your given car to a lease on a new-car with the same make and model. This should give you a better picture of the difference between leasing new and going for used. Just like leasing a new car, used vehicle leasing is more attractive when residual values depreciate the least. You stand a better chance of finding a bargain in the high-end, luxury vehicles that keep their values better as used cars.

Next, you need to check the initial mileage and the overall vehicle condition. The maximum mileage on a used car should be no more than 12,000 miles a year. A 3-years old car with 50,000 miles on the clock is very unlikely to make a good used-vehicle lease. Check for signs of excessive use, like worn seat fabric, worn pedal pads and dirty engine, which might indicate that the odometer has been rolled back. If the car is not certified, you need to get it thoroughly inspected. Ask your dealer for a manufacturer-sponsored certification program or have your car certified by a qualified mechanic or inspection service.

Most used-car deals don’t come with gap coverage. This is a special type of coverage, normally offered on a new auto-lease, to cover the consumer if the leased vehicle is lost, stolen or damaged. Typically, auto-insurance policies cover only what your car is worth at the time of loss, not what you still owe on the lease. The difference could run into thousands of dollars. For peace of mind, do not enter into any used-car lease without gap-coverage. Arrange it separately with either the lease dealer or your auto-insurance company.

The residual value of leasing

If you are in the market to lease a vehicle, you will hear the term “residual value” recur like a leitmotif. A residual value does not only affect your monthly payments, but is equally used by leasing companies to determine any penalties should you break your lease early and how much to pay if you decided to buy the vehicle at the end of your lease.

Let us first start by looking at the meaning of residual value. The term “residual value”, refers to the value of something after it has been used for some time. In leasing lingo, it refers to the depreciation of the vehicle’s value over the life of its lease. So how does it exactly affect your monthly payments? When you lease a car, you pay for the car’s value that you use over the lease length. Suppose you leased an $18,000 car for 2 years: the leasing company needs to estimate the value of this car in two years time in order to know how much of the car you will be using during your lease term. That’s where the “residual value” comes into the equation. If the residual value is estimated to be $13,000 at the end of your lease, then your monthly payments will be calculated on the $5,000 you will use over 24 months, giving an average monthly payment of $208.3 (plus interest, tax and fees). How about if the car is expected to lose half its value over the same
period? In this scenario, you will be using $9,000 over the same period, leaving you with a higher monthly payment of $375 (plus interest, tax and fees).

As you can see, residual values are a key factor in determining how much money to pay on your lease and the higher the residual value, the lower your monthly fees. This works in reverse if you build a bond with your car
and decide to purchase it at the end of your lease. If we stick with the same example above, the lower monthly payments in the second scenario come at the cost of paying substantially more to buy your car at the end of the lease.

So, since the residual value is so important, how do I know which one is best for me? Well, it all depends whether you want to purchase the car at the end of your lease. If you don’t want to make a large down payment and you want low monthly payments, then a car that holds with a higher residual value is a good deal. If you are thinking of purchasing the car at lease-end, then you need to balance low-monthly payments with a moderate residual value.

Scams, Auto Leasing

Car-leasing has been lauded as a more attractive alternative to buying, offering in the process the flexibility to drive a new car for less. The reality, however, is that leasing is an option that is fraught with many pitfalls for the average customer. Leasing regulation does not require as much disclosure as buying a vehicle. This has given rise to many leasing scams that trick the customer into believing they are into a good deal when, in effect, all he is getting is a rough deal on the dealer’s terms.

Here we look at some of these common scams and how to avoid them

Artificially low interest rates:

Some dealers quote a lower interest rate when in reality it’s much higher. They do this by either purposefully quoting the money factor as the interest rate or calculating the loan without amortizing some closing fees, like the security deposit, into the loan lease. Take the money factor for example: this is typically expressed as a four decimal digit, something like 0.004. Some dealers quote this as a 4% interest rate when in fact you need to multiply it by 24 to get a rough idea of the interest rate on your loan. In this example, the interest rate is a much higher 9.6% than the “quoted” rate of 4%.
Make sure you crunch the numbers and understand the formula they use to calculate their interest rate. Look out for any fees not factored into the calculation. If you are not satisfied, do not enter into the lease agreement.

Terminate your lease early for a low penalty

This is an all-time leasing scam. You ask your dealer how much you will pay if you want to terminate your lease and he tells you: “You want to get out early? Sure thing, you only pay an early termination fee of $300”.  What he is quoting is only the small administrative penalty of early termination, there is a much stiffer penalty called early termination fee and this runs into thousands of dollars. Do not confuse the early termination administrative penalty with the termination fee. Read the small print carefully and know exactly how much
you will get charged should you terminate your lease before its scheduled end. 

Pay for an extended warranty you don’t need

This is another shell game to inflate the dealer’s profit at your expense. The dealer slides an extended-warranty into the deal whilst it’s already factored into the monthly payments, or he tricks you into buying a 36-month warranty on a 24-month lease.  
You do not have to pay extra money for a warranty already built into your payments or for one that goes well beyond your lease term. They might slip an extended warranty in. Don’t be fooled, the warranty is already factored in.

No security deposit

Any dealer who advertises a $0 security deposit is not telling you the whole story. A security deposit is always factored in the lease under the provision for disposition fees.

Auto Insurance and Leasing

When leasing a car, it’s easier to stick with the same company for your auto insurance. What you don’t know, however, is that you may end up paying too much for your coverage and it’s better to look elsewhere for
lower rates.

When you lease, the vehicle that you will drive belongs to the leasing company. They want to make sure that their investment is covered in the event the vehicle gets damaged, totalled or stolen. They typically want to get covered for the difference between what your auto-insurer pays and your outstanding leasing obligations at the time of the accident or damage. This is called GAP, short for Guaranteed Auto Protection, and is usually included in the leasing contract.

If your leasing company is called BMW Financial Services, Chrysler Financial or any other finance division of an automaker, then chances are your GAP insurance will be offered by the same lease company.   

You are under no obligation to accept GAP insurance included as part of  your lease agreement. Why pay an insurance premium if you could get the same coverage for a lower price? Invest some time shopping by comparing quotes from other insurance companies, including your existing one. Ask for discounts that you already qualify for and adjust your coverage accordingly.